The striking rock wall of the Bergliswand rises above the valley floor of the Istalanztal, forming a broad, clearly visible ice field with several distinct lines. The icefalls cascade down a stepped rock barrier and, depending on conditions, form compact icefalls, small pillars and steep, partly incised ice gullies. Particularly striking are the central, massive ice lines with sustained steep sections. The climbing is varied, ranging from sloping lines on the right-hand side of the wall (WI 3) through steeper ascents to powerful, partly vertical steps (WI 5). In the central and left-hand sections, there are also opportunities for mixed climbing. The approach is through open terrain prone to avalanches and absolutely requires safe conditions as well as careful route selection. Particularly from the right-hand side of the valley, avalanches – especially wet-snow avalanches – are to be expected, which can reach all the way down to the valley floor.
Overall, the Bergliswand offers a wealth of ice-climbing opportunities against a stunning backdrop. Even less experienced ice climbers will find ideal conditions in the more moderate sectors to gain experience on alpine ice falls. Due to its location, it is climbable quite early in the season.
Access:
Take the Medrigjochbahn from the valley station
to the mountain station (approx. 1,800 m). Below the valley station of the Zeinisbahn,
follow the signposted winter walking trail ‘W 26 Istalanz’. Start by walking uphill alongside the
ski run at the edge of the slope for about 50 metres in altitude. Then turn off to the right
of the slope onto the winter hiking trail and follow it for a further approx. 200 metres
up to about 1,870 metres. Then walk slightly downhill to the Istalanzbach stream (approx. 1,782 metres).
Here, turn left into the Istalanz Valley and ascend gently for about 120
metres in altitude to a wayside cross (approx. 1,900 m) on the Paznaun High Trail.
From there, continue about 600 metres into the valley (Berglialpe) and climb a further approx. 200
metres in altitude to the base of the Bergliswand (Schwarze Wand). The
start of the icefall is at around 2,100 m. From the Medrigjochbahn, a total of
approx. 400 metres in altitude, 4 km (one way), walking time approx. 90 minuten.
Buses in the Paznaun valley | Region Paznaun – Ischgl